Many influencers attending The Rows AW24 at PFW were pissed that they weren't allowed to film the clothing nor were they allowed to share their experience on social media. While many fans of those influencers classified this move as a snub, this might actually be one of the smartest tactical moves a high end brand like The Row could make at a time when social media influence and millions of online opinions have the power to crush a luxury brand. Let's look at why.
1. Brand Fatigue. High end brands cannot afford to be over exposed. But why you ask, isn't exposure good for sales? Well no, because every sale is not created equally. Brand Fatigue is a real thing. Over exposure of high end brands eventually lead to a decrease in brand exclusivity. Luxury brands need to remain meaningful to the people who aren't only buying an entry level product for cheap likes from their followers that season, only to move on to the next luxury brand next season. The Row needs to remain appealing to the people who make repeat purchases over their lifetime because they resonate with the brands identity.
2. Brand Value. When people with the dough to buy The Rows goods no longer value the brand, it makes a significant dent in perceived value to everyone else. The same way Balenciaga lost it's appeal when Kim Kardashian took it mainstream and into H&M are not the same direction The Row wants to follow. Brand Value sustained over time is much more appealing than high cash flow for a couple of seasons. If the brand wants to move into luxury legacy status, they need to make the moves to leave the grid now.
3. Shopping experience in store. Due to the overexposure of The Row, in the last two years their stores have increased in foot traffic not for sales but for photo ops, video ops and just looky-loos that heard about them through the hype of social media. This dramatically affects the retail experience of the paying customers which they value.
4. Public Opinion. Negative criticism from people asking why "simple looking garments cost so much" have become a PR disaster for high Profile brands. More and more people who are purchasing luxury goods are openly airing their dissatisfaction in viral unboxing videos. Pricing strategies of luxury brands have become a major topic of conversation in online comments sections. Chanel marking up their prices to compete with the likes of Hermes while their quality wanes, questions like "Are Birkens out and Telfar bags in?" " Why has Van Cleef changed their packaging to a cheaper version?" and don't get me started on the Advent Calendars. The masses are scrutinising luxury goods like never before.
5. The old guard could possibly be back. Keeping the cameras off and making influencers write up about the products on notepads (which let's face it, isn't really going to churn the way a video online can) means a halt in exposure until they are ready to present in a meaningful way. A way that they have more control and collaboration. This means that qualified fashion editors will be able to reap the benefits in their printed magazines and online platforms. Qualified fashion journalists who are trained in understanding beautifully made garments, thread and craftsmanship as well as being able to articulate it, will return to their roles as the gatekeepers. The Row has given authority back to the old guardians of Fashion.
6. The Founder personalities of The Row (Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen) have shied away from the spotlight after their TV careers and from their previously loud Walmart brand of their youth. They chose to go into the shadows and design. They entered the quiet luxury space and are happy there. So to have their brand sing from the same hymn sheet is authentic and true to their nature.
So is The Row just the only brand to do this or will they be known as the first to implement this? We'll have to see if other industry players and Heritage brands do the same. Will they also take a risk? I believe they will follow. I believe many more brands will be cutting back on exposure via influencer channels simply because it does not serve their brands value in the market or bottom line.